Macbook Pro Battery

Hey guys, I have an issue here... a few months back I installed a new battery in my 2010 17" macbook pro running Zorin OS alone. The battery worked great for 3 months. About a week ago (after not using the computer for a while) I got the computer out but no charge. I plug it in, play around a bit, my kid pulls the plug out and PUFF... all gone. I do some digging and apparently my computer is nor working well with the battery... the battery is there... but it takes no charge. It says fully charged ironically but when you click, the icon it shows only 1% charged. You get the idea... How do I fix this?

Screenshot from 2023-10-15 16-31-44

Being a replacement battery may make a person think the battery cannot be the issue. But by everything you describe - it is the likeliest issue.

When you powered on the notebook after not using it for a while, did you run any updates?

Bad battery. Remove and replace.

I always run all the updates. Never happened that the battery would die after an update?

I have never heard of it happening - but that does not rule it out, either.

The only package that would effect the battery would be the kernel.
What you can try:
Roll back to the earlier kernel.

Power the Macbook off. Plug it in to charge. Check if it has taken any charge after 6 hours.
If it has not taken any charge - you most likely got a bad replacement battery.

How can I roll back a kernel?

You can access the Grub Menu that shows your Boot Options
Zorin OS
Advanced Options for Zorin
...and so on...
By tapping esc or tab starting at boot.

Select Advanced Options for Zorin and tehn select Zorin on... followed by the Earlier Kernel Version.

If you bought the battery directly from an Apple store or Apple corporate, the battery's gone bad.

If you bought the battery online, you likely got ripped off the moment you bought it... resellers often take old (but not at end-of-life) cells and put them into the battery casing for a certain computer, then sell them as new. Or they put fewer cells than are supposed to be in there, so you don't have the run-time of a legitimate battery.

I had that happen with a Dell Inspiron laptop when I bought its third battery (it was an old laptop, the other two batteries died after a respectable lifetime)... I ended up just buying a UPS, removing the battery, and running that way.

If you want to get really fancy (and you're electrically handy), you can rig up a go-between jack (it plugs into your laptop, your power supply plugs into it) which parallels a large-capacity capacitor bank, to even out the voltage fluctuation as the UPS switches from grid power to battery power, and to give your batteryless laptop a bit of time before the BIOS / UEFI resets to defaults because it's got no power when the UPS is off. I recommend a bank of Maxwell Durablue 3V 3000F supercaps... if, for instance, you've got an 18 V power supply, you'd need 7 of them in series (so you don't over-volt them).

That'd give you 428.571 F, which, drawing 1 amp, would take ~428 seconds to go from 18 V to 17 V.

That's an expensive solution, though... they're about $49 each. You could do the same with 13 rechargeable 1.5 V batteries for far less and get more run-time... and being at a maximum voltage of 1.3847 V (for a combined 18 V), the batteries would last a long time. You can assume a 1.5 V AA battery to be roughly equivalent to a 1900 F capacitor, so 13 of them will give you your required 18 V and the equivalent capacitance of 1900 F, which would give a runtime at 1 A draw of ~1900 seconds from 18 V (1.3847 V per cell) to 17 V (1.3077 V per cell).

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